Unusually for us we are staying awhile in rural surroundings. Normally, because of the van size we avoid single track roads but not this time. On the theory that if there is a campsite we must be able to get there we have taken small roads to some delightful spots.
Our first site was close to Le Bec Hellouin notable only for its huge abbey shown in the two pictures below. The site was quite isolated but had decent facilities like an indoor pool, cafe and cheap beer.
I'm sure, like the British, the French complain about EU bureaucracy but they tend to ignore it; hence cider made on the site and sold in unmarked bottles at 2.5 Euros. Very good too!
The small town was being dug up and the abbey grounds was having archaeological excavations so after a brief visit and sight of a few monks and nuns the only thing to do was have lunch. Two of the
three restaurants were shut so we went to Restaurant de la Tour. It had two menus, one at 20 Euros
which seemed fine but the one at 33 Euros was right up my street. Oysters, a pear sorbet and calvados palate cleanser, Ris de Veau, selection of cheeses and finishing with a Bavarois. Pauline opted for the seafood platter to start (so large help was needed in finishing it), filet of Turbot, cheese and a tarte tatin. In the end chef was 'desolee' that she only had 5 oysters left so we shared them as a pre-starter and I had a trio of fish tartare to begin. Washed down with a very pleasant muscadet sur lie we were well satisfied. Ris de Veau may not be to everyone's taste but veal sweetbreads are one of my real favourites when I can find them. Only disappointing note was that the restaurant was completely empty save us; pretty unusual for lunchtime in France but perhaps the prices kept the locals away.
Then onwards to Ustre, an even smaller settlement between Tours and Poitiers. If the weather had been better we might have enjoyed the outdoor heated pool and the crazy golf but despite the pictures below it tipped down most of the time and we decided to hibernate for the week. There were some nice walks but the nearest small town of Ingrandes - second picture below - had little to offer. We complain about our rural public transport but despite its train station there was one train a day at 7am so was unused. Also no buses!
Despite this, Ustre did have a restaurant, open for lunch 7 days a week and run by an Anglo French couple. It did a simple but tasty 3 course lunch, pate, duck confit and lemon tart, for 12.50 Euros and on the Monday we went it wax full entirely of locals, nearly all farm workers who ate there every day.
Our motorhome may look nice and secure but we were one of the few which didn't have to be towed out by the owner's tractor! So with weather improving we move further south. Thanks to J&A for their comments. Glad you enjoyed your Rheinland trip. More next week.
Adieu,
J&P
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