PAIS VASCO

Kaixo!
Another midweek post as some of our future sites have limited wifi.
So into Spain and the Basque Country, hence the unpronounceable greeting and farewell. Our first stop is San Sebastián and our campsite on top of the surrounding mountains about 30 minutes bus ride away. We need to remind ourselves not to use the satnav as it led us down single track roads which were strictly not big enough for our vehicle. Luckily nobody else was stupid enough to use these tracks so we had no crisis. Pan comido as they say in Espana.
We haven't exactly found the sun as J&A suggested but we weren't too worried in San Sebastián as it is a very atmosheric and elegant city and well worth a visit. The old town has interesting bars and shops and narrow streets and views to the cathedral and the new town below.

Good old Don Quixote and Sancho Panza ride along the promenade.

The local museum and art gallery are well worth a visit although it is so big and has so many diverse exhibitions that it is a bit much to take in. Not hard to take in is the marvellous food on offer. There seem to be bars and restaurants on every corner and most buildings in between. The one below had been recommended and we worried that it might have become a bit tired but the pintxos (like tapas but a bit more sophisticated) were brilliant. Various fishy toppings on bread, light and tasty croquetas de queso, carrilleras (beef cheek) and despite what I said in my last post, the most delicate, delicious grilled foie gras (speciality of the casa, couldn't resist!) that we had ever tasted. Washed down with a couple of glasses of Txacoli, which is a local young wine that is poured from a great height to give it a bit of fizz. Nearly all the locals seemed to drink it. And all this for under 25 Euros! Really extraordinary value.

A misty view from our campsite. A lovely position but when the weather came in, you couldn't see a yard in front.

A few lovely walks whilst the weather was kind. On the way back it rained solidly and you couldn't see a thing. Fortunately there was a bar half way home which provided melt in the mouth jamon iberico and a beautifully fresh tasting tortilla patatas. 

As we approached Bilbao temperatures scarcely reached double figures. We are staying at Islares, a couple of non-coordinated bus rides from Bilbao. Not quite as atmospheric as San Sebasian but it does have the extraordinary Guggenheim Museum which is amazing inside and out and was the real reason we visited. Sadly the exhibitions were less inspiring. The ground floor had some pretentious installation by Richard Serra,  the second floor was closed and the top floor was dedicated to a retrospective of  Niki de Saint Phalle who I first came across at the Nice Modern Art museum and enjoyed but a whole floor at the Guggenheim was just a bit too much.

One of Nikki de Saint Phalle's external sculptures.

There is also a very good fine art museum but at the end of day and all that art we just skimmed the surface. 

As you can see below, the weather cheered up for our last day and we ate at a local restaurant offering  superb fish amongst other things albeit at a price. But considering it was a whole sea bass and a whole monkfish it wasn't too bad. 

Egun Ona Izan! As they say in these parts. Thanks for reading. More next time. 

J&P